Cosmetic and dermatological preparations based on O/W emulsions

ABSTRACT

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of O/W emulsions, comprising 
     (1) 0.1 up to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more C 14 -C 22 -fatty acids, 
     (2) 0.2 up to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more mono- and/or diglycerides of fatty acids, 
     (3) 0.1 up to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, 
     where the sum of (1), (2) and (3) is at most 12% by weight, 
     (4) 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more nonpolar lipids, 
     (5) 0.5-7.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more fatty alcohols 
     (6) 0.5-7.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more lipophilic bodying agents having a melting point or dropping point of ≧30° C. 
     (7) 0.5-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more silicone oils, 
     (8) where the total lipid phase can comprise up to 40% by weight of polar lipids, based on the total weight of the lipid phase.

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological emulsions,in particular skincare cosmetic and dermatological emulsions. In apreferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a use whichpermits the stability of electrolyte-containing preparations, inparticular emulsions, preferably of O/W emulsions, to be increased.

The skin is the largest human organ. Amongst its many functions (forexample for temperature regulation and as a sensory organ) the barrierfunction, which prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism)from drying out, is by far the most important. At the same time, theskin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorptionof external substances. This barrier function is effected by theepidermis, which, as the outermost layer, forms the actual protectivesheath against the environment. Being about one tenth of the totalthickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.

The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the hornylayer (Stratum corneum), is the part which is of significance for thebarrier function. The Elias skin model, which is currently recognized inthe specialist field (P. M. Elias, Structure and Function of the StratumCorneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105),describes the horny layer as a two-component system, similar to a brickwall (bricks and mortar model). In this model, the horny cells(corneocytes) correspond to the bricks, and the lipid membrane in theintercellular spaces, which is of complex composition, corresponds tothe mortar. This system is essentially a physical barrier to hydrophilicsubstances, but, because of its narrow and multilayered structure, canequally, however, also be passed by lipophilic substances only withdifficulty.

The present invention relates, in a particular embodiment, to cosmeticor pharmaceutical preparations having a reduced feel of stickiness, toprocesses for their preparation, and the use of active ingredients forreducing the feel of stickiness of cosmetic preparations.

Apart from its barrier action against external chemical and physicalinfluences, the epidermal lipids also contribute to the holding togetherof the horny layer and have an effect on the smoothness of the skin. Incontrast to the sebaceous gland lipids, which do not form a continuousfilm on the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entirehorny layer.

The extremely complex interaction of the moisture-binding substances andof the lipids of the upper layers of the skin is very important for theregulation of skin moisture. For this reason, cosmetics generallycomprise, in addition to balanced lipid mixtures and water,water-binding substances.

As well as the chemical composition, however, the physical behavour ofthese substances is also of importance. The development of verybiocompatible emulsifiers and surfactants is therefore desirable.Products formulated therewith aid the liquid-crystalline organization ofthe intercellular lipids of the Stratum corneum, thereby improving thebarrier properties of the horny layer. It is particularly advantageousif their molecular constituents consist of substances which arenaturally occurring in the epidermis.

Cosmetic skin care primarily means that the natural function of the skinas a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals,microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (e.g.water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or rebuilt.

If this function is impaired, increased resorption of toxic orallergenic substances or attack by microorganisms may result, leading totoxic or allergic skin reactions.

Another aim of skin care is to compensate for the loss by the skin oflipids and water caused by daily washing. This is particularly importantwhen the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. Furthermore,skincare products should protect against environmental influences, inparticular against sun and wind, and delay skin ageing.

Medicinal topical compositions generally comprise one or moremedicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity,in order to distinguish clearly between cosmetic and medicinal use andcorresponding products, reference is made to the legal provisions in theFederal Republic of Germany (e.g. Cosmetics Directive, Foods and DrugsAct).

Customary cosmetic forms of application are emulsions. This termgenerally means a heterogeneous system of two liquids which areimmiscible or miscible only to a limited extent with one another, whichare usually referred to as phases. One is in the form of droplets(disperse or internal phase), whilst the other liquid forms a continuous(coherent or internal) phase. Less common forms of application aremultiple emulsions, i.e. those which, in the droplets of the dispersed(or discontinuous) phase, comprise for their part droplets of a furtherdispersed phase, e.g. W/O/W emulsions and O/W/O emulsions.

More recent findings have recently led to a better understanding ofcosmetic emulsions which are of relevance in practice. Here, it isassumed that the emulsifier mixtures used in excess form lamellarliquid-crystalline phases or crystalline gel phases. In the gel networktheory, stability and physicochemical properties of such emulsions areattributed to the formation of viscoelastic gel networks.

In order to be able to ensure the metastability of emulsions,interface-active substances, i.e. emulsifiers, are usually necessary.The use per se of customary cosmetic emulsifiers is entirely acceptable.Nevertheless, emulsifiers, as ultimately any chemical substance, may incertain cases cause allergic reactions or reactions based onoversensitivity of the user. For example, it is known that in someparticularly sensitive people, certain light dermatoses are triggered bycertain emulsifiers and simultaneous action of sunlight.

It is possible to prepare emulsifier-free preparations which, forexample, have, in an aqueous phase, dispersed oil droplets, similar toan O/W emulsion. A prerequisite for this may be that the continuousaqueous phase has a gel framework which stabilizes the dispersed phase,and other conditions besides. Such systems are sometimes calledhydrodispersions or oleodispersions depending on which is the dispersephase and which is the continuous phase.

For cosmetic technology, it is, however, neither necessary nor possibleto dispense with emulsifiers altogether, especially since there is acertain choice of particularly mild emulsifiers. However, the prior artlacks a satisfactorily broad range of such emulsifiers which would thenalso significantly broaden the application spectrum of correspondinglymild cosmetic preparations which are tolerated by the skin.

An object of the present invention was therefore to provide cosmetic anddermatological preparations having excellent skincare properties.

A disadvantage, in particular of O/W emulsions, is often theirinadequate stability to relatively high electrolyte concentrations,which manifests itself in phase separation. This can indeed sometimeslead to problems, even in the case of W/O emulsions, although this is byno means as important here as in the case of O/W systems. Although thesecan often be remedied to a certain extent through appropriate choice ofthe emulsifier system, other disadvantages, however, arise just asoften.

On the other hand, it is often desireable to use certain electrolytes inorder to be able to utilize their other physical, chemical orphysiological properties.

The concentrations of all of the constituents of a cosmetic ordermatological preparation are usually chosen in units such as % byweight, mol % and the like. In view of their greater or lesserdissociation into cations and anions, often in several dissociationstages, it sometimes appears more advantageous for the description ofthe present invention and its technical background, to start from theionic strength of a given electrolyte in its solution.

The ionic strength I of an electrolyte solution is defined as$I = {\frac{1}{2}{\sum\limits_{i}^{\quad}{c_{i}z_{i}^{2}}}}$

where c_(i) or the concentrations of the individual types of ion (inmol/l) and z_(i) are their charges. The physical unit of ionic strengthis that of a concentration (mol/l).

For example, a 1% strength (=0.17 molar) sodium chloride solution has anionic strength I=0.17.

Another object of the present invention was therefore to discover waysof producing cosmetic or dermatological emulsions, in particular O/Wemulsions, which are stable to increased electrolyte concentrations—orincreased ionic strengths.

It was furthermore an object of the present invention to providepreparations which significantly improve the condition of the skin, inparticular reduce skin roughness.

It is known that certain substances, for example a few selected powderraw materials, in particular talc, can be added to reduce a feeling ofstickiness and also a feeling of greasiness. However, apart from thefact that this is only rarely completely successful, such an additionalso changes the viscosity of the product in question and lowers thestability.

The object was therefore to remedy all of these disadvantages of theprior art. In particular, the intention was to provide products havingreduced stickiness or greasiness. Products in the field of carecosmetics, decorative cosmetics and pharmacological technology shouldlikewise be freed from the described disadvantages of the prior art.Furthermore, it was an object of the invention to develop cosmetic basesfor cosmetic preparations which are characterized by good skincompatibility.

Furthermore, it was an object of the present invention to provideproducts with as broad an application diversity as possible. Forexample, the intention was to provide bases for preparation forms suchas cleansing emulsions, face and bodycare preparations, and alsodistinctly medicinal-pharmaceutical administration forms, for examplepreparations for treating acne and other skin conditions.

Surprisingly, it has been found, and herein lies the solution to theseproblems, that cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form ofO/W emulsions, comprising

(1) 0.1 up to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparations, of one or more C₁₄-C₂₂-fatty acids,

(2) 0.2 up to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparations, of one or more mono- and/or diglycerides of fatty acids,

(3) 0.1 up to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters,

where the sum of (1), (2) and (3) is at most 12% by weight,

(4) 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations,of one or more nonpolar lipids,

(5) 0.5-7.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations,of one or more fatty alcohols

(6) 0.5-7.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations,of one or more lipophilic bodying agents having a melting point ordropping point of ≧30° C.

(7) 0.5-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, ofone or more silicone oils,

(8) where the total lipid phase can comprise up to 40% by weight ofpolar lipids, based on the total weight of the lipid phase,

overcome the disadvantages of the prior art.

It was therefore not foreseeable by the person skilled in the art thatthe preparations according to the invention would

be more effective moisture-donating preparations,

better promote skin smoothing,

be characterized by better care action,

be better vehicles for cosmetic and medicinal-dermatological activeingredients

have higher stability to decomposition in oil and water phases and

would be characterized by better biocompatibility

would be characterized by better feel on the skin and by higher cosmeticelegance than the prior art preparations.

The preparations according to the invention can be formulated both inflowable form and also in cream form, have very good cosmeticproperties, in particular with regard to stickiness, and have very goodskin compatibility and skincare performance.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention relate to cosmetic anddermatological preparations according to the main claim, comprising

(1) 0.5 up to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparations, of one or more C₁₄-C₂₂-fatty acids.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention also relate tocosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the main claim,comprising

(2) 2.5 up to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparations, of one or more mono- and/or diglycerides of fatty acids.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention also relate tocosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the main claim,comprising

(3) 1.0 up to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters.

Particularly advantageous embodiments of the present invention areobtained if they relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparationsaccording to the main claim, comprising

(2) up to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations,of glyceryl stearate.

Particularly advantageous embodiments of the present invention areobtained when they relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparationsaccording to the main claim, comprising

(3) up to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations,of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters chosen from the group ofPEG-20 to PEG-100 stearates.

It is particularly advantageous to choose weight ratios between theconstituents given under (1), (2) and (3) of approximately 1:4:2.

Furthermore, advantageous embodiments of the present invention areobtained if they relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparationsaccording to the main claim, comprising

(4) 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations,of one or more nonpolar lipids, chosen from the group of mineral oiland/or mineral waxes (including Vaseline).

Furthermore, advantageous embodiments of the present invention areobtained if these relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparationsaccording to the main claim, comprising

(5) 2.0-3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations,of one or more fatty alcohols.

Furthermore, advantageous embodiments of the present invention areobtained if these relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparationsaccording to the main claim, comprising

(6) 1.5-2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations,of one or more lipophilic bodying agents having a melting point ordropping point of ≧30° C.

Furthermore, advantageous embodiments of the present invention areobtained if these relate to cosmetic and dermatological preparationsaccording to the main claim, comprising

(7) 5-8% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, ofone or more silicone oils, particularly preferably cyclomethicones.

For the purposes of the present disclosure, the general term for fats,oils, waxes and the like which is sometimes used is the expression“lipids”, with which the person skilled in the art is entirely familiar.The terms “oily phase”. and “lipid phase” are also used synonymously.

Oils and fats differ from one another in their polarity, which isdifficult to define. It has already been proposed to adopt theinterfacial tension towards water as a measure of the polarity index ofan oil or of an oily phase. Then, the lower the interfacial tensionbetween this oily phase and water, the greater the polarity of the oilyphase in question. According to the invention, the interfacial tensionis regarded as one possible measure of the polarity of a given oilcomponent.

The interfacial tension is the force which acts on an imaginary line onemeter in length in the interface between two phases. The physical unitfor this interfacial tension is conventionally calculated from theforce/length relationship and is usually expressed in mN/m (millinewtonsdivided by meters). It has a positive sign if it endeavours to reducethe interface. In the converse case, it has a negative sign. For thepurposes of the present invention, lipids are regarded as polar if theirinterfacial tension towards water is less than 30 mN/m.

Polar oils are for example those from the group of lecithins and offatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturatedand/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acidshaving a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbonatoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously bechosen from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, suchas, for example, olive oil, sunflower oil, soya oil, peanut oil,rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheatgermoil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oiland the like.

Other polar oil components can be chosen from the group of esters ofsaturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranchedalkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbonatoms and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranchedalcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and fromthe group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/orunsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain lengthof from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously bechosen from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate,n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate,isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate,2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleylerucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semisynthetic andnatural mixtures of such esters, such as, for example, jojoba oil.

In addition, the constituents of the oily phase can be advantageouslychosen from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated orunsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be usedadvantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Nonpolar oils are, for example, those which are chosen from the group ofbranched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes, inparticular Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene,polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Of the polyolefins,polydecenes are the preferred substances. Table 1 below lists lipidswhich are advantageous according to the invention as individualsubstances and also as a mixture with one another. The respectiveinterfacial tensions towards water are given in the last column. It is,however, also advantageous to use mixtures of more or less polarsubstances and the like, provided it is ensured that the overallpolarity of the oily phase lies within the claimed range.

TABLE 1 Trade name INCI name (mN/m) Isofol ® 14 T Butyl Decanol + HexylDecanol + Hexyl 27.6 Octanol + Butyl Octanol Isofol ® 16 Hexyl Decanol24.3 Eutanol ® G Octyldodecanol 24.8 Cetiol ® OE Dicaprylyl Ether 22.1Miglyol ® 812 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 21.3 Cegesoft ® C24 OctylPalmitate 23.1 Isopropyl stearate Isopropyl Stearate 21.9 Estol ® 1540EHC Octyl Octanoate 30.0 Finsolv ® TN C₁₂₋₁₅ Alkyl Benzoate 21.8Cetiol ® SN Cetearyl Isononanoate 28.6 Dermofeel ® BGC Butylene GlycolCaprylate/Caprate 21.5 Trivent ® OCG Tricaprylin 20.2 MOD OctyldodecylMyristate 22.1 Cosmacol ® ETI Di-C₁₂₋₁₃ Alkyl Tartrate 29.4 Miglyol ®829 Caprylic/Capric Diglyceryl Succinate 29.5 Prisorine ® 2036 OctylIsostearate 29.7 Tegosoft ® SH Stearyl Heptanoate 28.7 Abil ® Wax 9840Cetyl Dimethicone 25.1 Cetiol ® LC Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 24.8 IPPIsopropyl Palmitate 22.5 Luvitol ® EHO Cetearyl Octanoate 28.6 Cetiol ®868 Octyl Stearate 28.4

It is preferred according to the invention to choose the silicone oil(s)of the preparations according to the invention from the group of cyclicand/or linear silicones, which are also referred to as “silicone oils”within the scope of the present disclosure. Such silicones or siliconeoils can be in the form of monomers, which are generally characterizedby structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones having two or more siloxyl units which are to be usedadvantageously according to the invention are generally characterized bystructural elements as follows:

where the silicon atoms can be substituted by identical or differentalkyl radicals and/or aryl radicals, which are shown here by theradicals R₁-R₄ as a generalization (that is to say that the number ofdifferent radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). m can assume valuesfrom 2-200.000.

Cyclic silicones which are to be used advantageously according to theinvention are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows

where the silicon atoms can be substituted by identical or differentalkyl radicals and/or aryl radicals, which are shown here by theradicals R₁-R₄ as a generalization (that is to say that the number ofdifferent radicals is not necessarily limited to 4). n can assume valuesfrom 3/2 to 20. Fractions for n take into consideration the fact thatuneven numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in the cycle.

Phenyltrimethicone is advantageously chosen as the silicone oil. Othersilicone oils, for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone,cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), for examplehexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane,poly(methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone canalso be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotodecyl isononanoate, and those withcyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also advantageous.

It is, however, also advantageous to choose silicone oils which have asimilar constitution to the above-named compounds, whose organic sidechains are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and/orpolypropoxylated. These include, for example,polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers, such as cetyldimethiconecopolymers, such as cetyldimethicone copolyol, (cetyldimethiconecopolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4isostearate (and) hexyl laurate).

The silicone oil(s) can also particularly advantageously be chosen fromthe group of silicones of the general structure

[lacuna] based on the total weight of the preparation, where n canassume numbers between 5 and 50. It is advantageous here to choose theaverage value n from the range 12-16. A particularly advantageousrepresentative of such silicone oils has proven to be silicone oil AK 10from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, whose average value for n is about 14.

Preferred preparations according to the invention advantageously containa proportion of at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% byweight, of one or more silicone oils. Basic constituents of thepreparations according to the invention which may be used are:

water or aqueous solutions

aqeuous ethanolic solutions

natural oils and/or chemically modified natural oils and/or syntheticoils;

fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferablyesters of fatty acids with alcohols of low carbon number, e.g. withisopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcoholswith alkanoic acids of low carbon number or with fatty acids;

alcohols, diols or polyols of low carbon number, and ethers thereof,preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethyleneglycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycolmonomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethylor monoethyl ether and analogous products.

In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.

For the purposes of the present invention, the oily phase of theemulsions preferably consists, according to the invention, predominantlyof components of the type listed under point (4), although it ispossible, without having to accept significant disadvantages, to chooseup to 50% by weight, preferably up to 40% by weight, of the total weightof the oil components from the group of other oil components. These thencan advantageously be chosen from the group of esters of saturatedand/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acidshaving a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and/orunsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain lengthof from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and from the group of esters of aromaticcarboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/orunbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.Such ester oils can then advantageously be chosen from the groupconsisting of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropylstearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyloleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate,2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate,2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate,erucyl erucate, and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures ofsuch esters, e.g. jojoba oil.

The oily phase can also be chosen advantageously from the group ofbranched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes, dialkylethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranchedalcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters ofsaturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranchedalkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, inparticular 12-18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglyercides can, forexample, be advantageously chosen from the group of synthetic,semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. olive oil, sunflower oil, soya oil,peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kerneloil and the like provided the conditions required in the main claim areobserved.

Fatty and/or wax components which are to be used advantageouslyaccording to the invention can be chosen from the group of vegetablewaxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes. Exampleswhich are favourable according to the invention are candelilla wax,carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, ricegerm oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax,jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (woolwax), uropygial grease, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), paraffin waxesand microcrystalline waxes provided the conditions required in the mainclaim are observed.

Other advantageous fatty and/or wax components are chemically modifiedwaxes and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, those obtainable underthe trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC(C₁₆₋₃₆ fatty acid triglyceride) and Syncrowax AW 1C (C₁₈₋₃₆ fatty acid)from CRODA GmbH, and montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenatedjojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (e.g. dimethicone copolyolbeeswax and/or C₃₀₋₅₀ alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethyleneglycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats, such as, for example,hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and/orhydrogenated coconut fatty glycerides), triglycerides, such as, forexample, trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, and glycolesters, such as, for example, C₂₀₋₄₀-alkyl stearate,C₂₀₋₄₀-alkylhydroxystearoyl stearate and/or glycol montanate. Alsoadvantageous are certain organosilicon compounds, which have similarphysical properties to the specified fatty and/or wax components, suchas, for example, stearoxytrimethylsilane provided the conditionsrequired in the main claim are observed.

According to the invention, the fatty and/or wax components can bepresent either individually or as a mixture.

Any desired mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be usedadvantageously for the purposes of the present invention. In someinstances, it can also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetylpalmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oily phase provided theconditions required in the main claim are observed.

The oily phase is advantageously chosen from the group consisting of2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate,isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C₁₂₋₁₅-alkyl benzoate,caprylic/capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether provided the conditionsrequired in the main claim are observed.

Mixtures of C₁₂₋₁₅-alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixturesof C₁₂₋₁₅-alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate, and mixtures ofC₁₂₋₁₅-alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecylisononanoate are particularly advantageous provided the conditionsrequired in the main claim are observed.

O/W emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be preparedusing customary O/W emulsifiers, if desired with the help of W/Oemulsifiers or other co-emulsifiers.

O/W emulsions corresponding to the present invention comprise one ormore emulsifiers, if desired advantageously chosen from the group of thefollowing substances, which generally act as W/O emulsifiers:

Sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl lanolate,lanolin, microcrystalline wax (Cera microcristallina) in a mixture withparaffin oil (paraffinum liquidum), ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil,glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, wool wax acid mixtures,wool wax alcohol mixtures, pentaerythritol isostearate, polyglyceryl-3diisostearate, sorbitan oleate in a mixture with hydrogenating castoroil, beeswax (Cera alba) and stearic acid, sodiumdihydroxycetylphosphate in a mixture with isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether,methylglucose dioleate, methylglucose dioleate in a mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral oil in a mixture with petrolatum andozokerite and glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum in amixture with ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil and glycerylisostearate and polyglyceryl-3 oleate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil,sorbitan oleate in a mixture with PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil,ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan isostearate in a mixturewith PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate,polyglyceryl-4 isostearate in a mixture with cetyldimethicone copolyoland hexyl laurate, laurylmethicone copolyol, cetyldimethicone copolyol,acrylate/C₁₀₋₃₀-alkyl acrylate cross polymer, sorbitan isostearate,poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30dipolyhydroxystearate, diistearoylpolyglyceryl-3 diisostearate,polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4 dipolyhydroxystearate,polyglyceryl-3 dioleate.

If desired, O/W emulsions corresponding to the present inventioncomprise one or more emulsifiers, particularly advantageously chosenfrom the group of the following substances, which generally act as O/Wemulsifiers:

Glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25,ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in amixture with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetylstearyl sulphate,triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium cetylstearylsuphate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate, stearicacid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil,PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides,glyceryl oleate in a mixture with propylene glycol, PEG-9 stearate,ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate in a mixture withPEG-100 stearate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl laurate, PEG-40 sorbitanperoleate, laureth-4, ceteareth-3, isostearyl glyceryl ether,cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with sodium cetylstearyl sulfate,laureth-23, steareth-2, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with PEG-30stearate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, PEG-22 dodecyl glycolcopolymer, polyglyceryl-2 PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-20, methylglucosesesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, steareth-2 in a mixturewith PEG-8 distearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth-20,PEG-45/dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy PEG-22/dodecyl glycolcopolymer, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate,PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-8 beeswax,polyglyceryl-2 laurate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate,stearamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, glyceryl stearate SE,ceteth-20, triethyl citrate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate,ceteareth-12, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, sorbitansesquioleate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, trilaureth-4 phosphate,polyglyceryl methylglucose distearate, potassium cetyl phosphate,isosteareth-10, polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate, ceteth-10, oleth-20,isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20,ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearylalcohol in a mixture with PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

For the purposes of the present invention, emulsions according to theinvention, for example in the form of a skin protection cream, a skinlotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form of a sun protectioncream or a sun protection milk, are advantageous and comprise, forexample, fats, oils, waxes and/or other fatty substances, and water andone or more emulsifiers as are customarily used for this type offormulation.

The person skilled in the art is of course aware that demanding cosmeticcompositions are in most cases inconceivable without the customaryauxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, bodying agents,fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients suchas vitamins or proteins, light protection agents, stabilizers, insectrepellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic orkeratolytic substances, etc.

Corresponding requirements apply mutatis mutandis to the formulation ofmedicinal preparations.

For the purposes of the present invention, medicinal topicalcompositions generally comprise one or more medicaments in an effectiveconcentration. For the sake of simplicity, in order to distinguishclearly between cosmetic and medicinal use and corresponding products,reference is made to the legal provisions in the Federal Republic ofGermany (for example Cosmetics Directive, Foods and Drugs Act).

Accordingly, for the purposes of the present invention, cosmetic ortopical dermatological compositions can, depending on their composition,be used for example as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreenlotion, nourishing cream, day or night cream, etc. If desired, it ispossible and advantageous to use the compositions according to theinvention as a base for pharmaceutical formulations.

It is likewise advantageous to make use of the properties according tothe invention in the form of decorative cosmetics (make-upformulations).

Those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form ofa sunscreen are also favourable. In addition to the active ingredientused according to the invention, these also preferably comprise at leastone UVA filter substance and/or at least one UVB filter substance and/orat least one inorganic pigment.

However, it is also advantageous for the purposes of the presentinvention to provide cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose mainpurpose is not protection against sunlight, but which neverthelesscontain anti-UV substances. Thus, for example, UV-A and UV-B filtersubstances are usually incorporated into day creams.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously comprisesubstances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB region, the total amountof filter substances being, for example, from 0.1% by weight to 30% byweight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 6%by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples ofoil-soluble substances which may be mentioned are:

3-benzylidenecamphor and derivatives thereof, e.g.3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor,

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate;

esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate,isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate;

esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate,4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;

derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone,2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di(2-ethylhexyl)4-methoxybenzalmalonate;

2,4,6-trianilino(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine.

Advantageous water-soluble substances are:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and salts thereof, for examplesodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts,

sulphonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid and its salts;

sulphonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, such as, forexample, 4-(2-oxo-3bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulphonic acid,2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)-sulphonic acid and its salts.

The list of given UVB filters which can be used according to theinvention is of course not intended to be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters that are usually presentin cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations in preparations accordingto the invention. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives ofdibenzoylmethane, in particular1-(4′-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione and1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione. Preparations whichcomprise these combinations are also provided by the invention. It ispossible to use the same amounts of UVA filter substances which weregiven for UVB filter substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, cosmetic and/ordermatological preparations can also comprise inorganic pigments whichare usually used in cosmetics for protecting the skin against UVradiation. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon,manganese, aluminium, cerium and mixtures thereof, and modifications inwhich the oxides are the active agents. Particular preference is givento pigments based on titanium dioxide. It is possible to use thequantities given for the above combinations.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the inventioncan comprise cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and/or additivesas are usually used in such preparations, for example antioxidants,preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, antifoams, dyes, pigments whichhave a colouring effect, thickeners, surfactants, emulsifiers,emollients, moisturizers and/or humectants, fats, oils, waxes or otherusual constituents of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation, such asalcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organicsolvents or silicone derivatives.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous to addother anti-irritative or anti-inflammatory active ingredients to thepreparations, in particular batyl alcohol (α-octadecyl glyceryl ether),selachyl alcohol (α-9-octadecenyl glyceryl ether), chimyl alcohol(α-hexadecyl glyceryl ether), bisabolol and/or panthenol.

It is likewise advantageous to add conventional antioxidants to thepreparations for the purposes of the present invention. According to theinvention, favourable antioxidants can be any antioxidants which aresuitable or customary for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consistingof amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan)and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and derivativesthereof, peptides such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine andderivatives thereof (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g.α-carotene, β-carotene, ψ-lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenicacid and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g.dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols(e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and theglycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl,palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof)and salts thereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters,ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) andsulphoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulphoximines, homocysteinesulphoximine, buthionine sulphones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninesulphoximine) in very small tolerated doses (e.g. pmol to μmol/kg), also(metal) chelating agents (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid,phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lacticacid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin,biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acidsand derivatives thereof (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleicacid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, furfurylidenesorbitol andderivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof,vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbylphosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitaminE acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) andconiferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof,α-glycosylrutin, fenulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid andderivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc andderivatives thereof (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO₄), selenium and derivatives thereof(e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (e.g.stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts,esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids)of said active ingredients which are suitable according to theinvention.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparationsis preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the totalweight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and/or derivatives thereof are used as the antioxidant(s),it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from therange 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

The preparations according to the present invention can also be used asbases for cosmetic or dermatological deodorants or antiperspirants. Allactive ingredients which are common for deodorants or antiperspirantscan be used advantageously, for example odour maskers such as thecustomary perfume constituents, odour absorbers, for example thephyllosilicates described in laid-open patent specification DE-P 40 09347, and of these, in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, ilite,beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, andalso, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid.

Antibacterial agents are likewise suitable for incorporation into thepreparations according to the invention. Advantageous substances are,for example, 2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Irgasan),1,6-di(4-chlorophenylbiguanido)hexane (chlor-hexidine),3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds, oil ofcloves, mint oil, oil of thyme, triethyl citrate, famesol(3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and the active ingredients oractive ingredient combinations described in laid-open patentspecifications DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707,DE-43 09 372, DE-44 11 664, DE-195 41 967, DE-195 43 695, DE-195 43 696,DE-195 47 160, DE-196 02 108, DE-196 02 110, DE-196 02 111, DE-196 31003, DE-196 31 004 and DE-196 34 019 and the patent specifications DE-4229 737, DE-42 37 081, DE-43 24 219, DE-44 29 467, DE-44 23 410 andDE-195 16 705. Sodium hydrogencarbonate can also be used advantageously.

The amount of such active ingredients (one or more compounds) in thepreparations according to the invention is preferably from 0.001 to 30%by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

For the purposes of the present invention, the aqueous phase of thecosmetic preparations can also have gel character which, in addition toan effective content of the substances used according to the inventionand the solvents used customarily therefor, preferably water, alsocomprises other organic thickeners, e.g. gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodiumalginate, starch and starch derivatives (e.g. distarch phosphate),cellulose, cellulose derivatives, preferably methylcellulose,hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose,hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. aluminiumsilicates such as, for example, organically modified and also unmodifiedhectorites, bentonites or the like, or a mixture of polyethylene glycoland polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is presentin the gel, for example in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight,preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

It can also be advantageous to add interface- or surface-active agentsaccording to the invention to preparations, for example cationicemulsifiers such as, in particular, quaternary surfactants.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N-atom which is covalentlybonded to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Irrespective of the pH, this leads toa positive charge. Alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine andalkylamidopropylhydroxysultaine are advantageous. The cationicsurfactants used according to the invention can also preferably bechosen from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particularbenzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example,benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, and also alkyltrialkylammoniumsalts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide,alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides,dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides,alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulphates, alkylpyridinium salts,for example lauryl- or cetylpyridinium chloride, imidazoline derivatesand compounds having a cationic character such as amine oxides, forexample alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxide.In particular, cetyltrimethylammonium salts are to be usedadvantageously.

It is also advantageous to use cationic polymers (e.g. Jaguar® C 162[hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride] or modifiedmagnesium aluminium silicates (e.g. quaternium-18 hectorite, which isobtainable, for example, under the trade name Bentone® 38 from Rheox, orstearalkonium hectorite, which is obtainable, for example, under thetrade name Softisan® Gel from Hüls AG).

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously also compriseoil thickeners in order to improve the tactile properties of theemulsion and the stick consistency. Advantageous oil thickeners for thepurposes of the present invention are, for example, other solids, suchas, for example, hydrophobic silicon oxides of the Aerosil® type, whichare obtainable from Degussa AG. Advantageous Aerosil® products are, forexample, Aerosil® OX50, Aerosil® 130, Aerosil® 150, Aerosil® 200,Aerosil® 300, Aerosil® 380, Aerosil® MOX 80, Aerosil® MOX 170, Aerosil®COK 84, Aerosil® R 202, Aerosil® R 805, Aerosil® R 812, Aerosil® R 972,Aerosil® R 974 and/or Aerosil® R976.

In addition, so-called metal soaps (i.e. the salts of higher fatty acidswith the exception of the alkali metal salts) are also advantageous oilthickeners for the purposes of the present invention, such as, forexample, aluminium stearate, zinc stearate and/or magnesium stearate.

It is likewise advantageous to add amphoteric or zwitterionicsurfactants (e.g. cocoamidopropylbetaine) and moisturizers (e.g.betaine) to preparations according to the invention. Examples ofamphoteric surfactants which are to be used advantageously areacyl-/dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate,disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodiumacylamphohydroxypropyl-sulphonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate andsodium acylamphopropionate, N-alkylamino acids, for exampleaminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodiumalkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

The amount of interface- or surface-active substances (one or morecompounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferablyfrom 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight,in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparation.

Preparations according to the invention can also comprise activeingredients (one or more compounds) which are chosen from the group:acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and derivativesthereof, e.g. hydrocortisone-17 valerate, vitamins, e.g. ascorbic acidand derivatives therof, vitamins of the B and D series, very favourablyvitamin B₁, vitamin B₁₂ and vitamin D₁, but also bisabolol, unsaturatedfatty acids, namely the essential fatty acids (often also called vitaminF), in particular γ-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid,docosahexaenoic acid and derivatives thereof, chloramphenicol, caffeine,prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of avegetable or animal origin, e.g. evening primrose oil, starflower oil orcurrant seed oil, fish oils, cod-liver oil or also ceramides andceramide-like compounds, etc. It is also advantageous to choose theactive ingredients from the group of refatting substances, for examplePurcellin oil, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.

The amount of such active ingredients (one or more compounds) in thepreparations according to the invention is preferably from 0.001 to 30%by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The examples below serve to illustrate the present invention.

EXAMPLE 1

% by weight Stearic acid/palmitic acid 2.00 PEG-40 stearate 2.00Glyceryl stearate 2.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00 Hydrogenatedpolyisobutene 7.00 Petrolatum 4.00 Cyclomethicone 9.00 Glyceryl lanolate2.00 Glycerol 4.00 Perfume, preservatives, q.s. dyes, antioxidants etc.Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.5

EXAMPLE 2

% by weight Stearic acid/palmitic acid 1.20 PEG-40 stearate 2.00Glyceryl stearate 4.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00 Hydrogenatedpolyisobutene 10.00 Cyclomethicone 10.00 Glyceryl lanolate 2.00 Glycerol4.00 Perfume, preservatives, q.s. dyes, antioxidants etc. Water ad100.00 pH adjusted to 6.5

EXAMPLE 3

% by weight Stearic acid/palmitic acid 1.20 PEG-40 stearate 2.00Glyceryl stearate 6.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.50 Hydrogenatedpolyisobutene 8.00 Petrolatum 2.00 Cyclomethicone 9.00 Glyceryl lanolate2.00 Glycerol 4.00 Perfume, preservatives, q.s. dyes, antioxidants etc.Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.5

EXAMPLE 4

% by weight Stearic acid/palmitic acid 1.20 PEG-100 stearate 1.20Glyceryl stearate 3.60 Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00 Hydrogenatedpolyisobutene 9.00 Petrolatum 2.00 Cyclomethicone 7.00 Dimethicone 3.00Glyceryl lanolate 2.00 Glycerol 4.00 Perfume, preservatives, q.s. dyes,antioxidants etc. Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 7.0

EXAMPLE 5

% by weight Stearic acid/palmitic acid 1.20 PEG-20 stearate 1.20Glyceryl stearate 3.60 Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00 Hydrogenatedpolyisobutene 9.00 Petrolatum 2.00 Cyclomethicone 5.00 Dimethicone 5.00Glyceryl lanolate 5.00 Glycerol 10.00 Perfume, preservatives, q.s. dyes,antioxidants etc. Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.5

EXAMPLE 6

% by weight Stearic acid/palmitic acid 1.20 PEG-40 stearate 1.20Glyceryl stearate 3.60 Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00 Hydrogenatedpolyisobutene 8.00 Paraffinum liquidum 5.00 Petrolatum 2.00Cyclomethicone 10.00 Glyceryl lanolate 2.00 Glycerol 10.00 Perfume,preservatives, q.s. dyes, antioxidants etc. Water ad 100.00 pH adjustedto 7.0

EXAMPLE 7

% by weight Stearic acid/palmitic acid 1.20 PEG-40 stearate 1.20Glyceryl stearate 3.60 Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00 Hydrogenatedpolyisobutene 8.00 Polydecene 6.00 Petrolatum 4.00 Cyclomethicone 10.00Glyceryl lanolate 2.00 Glycerol 5.00 Perfume, preservatives, q.s. dyes,antioxidants etc. Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 7.0

EXAMPLE 8

% by weight Stearic acid/palmitic acid 1.20 PEG-40 stearate 2.00Glyceryl stearate 4.00 Cetearyl alcohol 3.00 Hydrogenated polyisobutene9.00 Polydecene 5.00 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 5.00 Petrolatum 1.00Cyclomethicone 4.00 Glyceryl lanolate 2.00 Glycerol 3.00 Perfume,preservatives, q.s. dyes, antioxidants etc. Water ad 100.00 pH adjustedto 6.0

EXAMPLE 9

% by weight Stearic acid/palmitic acid 1.20 PEG-40 stearate 2.00Glyceryl stearate 4.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00 Hydrogenatedpolyisobutene 12.00 Polydecene 4.00 Cyclomethicone 5.00 Glyceryllanolate 2.00 Glycerol 3.00 Octyl methoxycinnamate 3.00 Benzophenone-32.00 Octyl salicylate 1.00 Perfume, preservatives, NaOH, q.s. dyes,antioxidants etc. Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 7.0

EXAMPLE 10

% by weight Stearic acid/palmitic acid 1.00 PEG-100 stearate 2.00Glyceryl stearate 4.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00 Hydrogenatedpolyisobutene 9.00 Octyldodecanol 3.50 Dimethicone 10.00 Myristylmyristate 4.00 Glycerol 3.00 Perfume, preservatives, q.s. dyes,antioxidants etc. Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 7.0

EXAMPLE 11

% by weight Stearic acid/palmitic acid 1.00 PEG-100 stearate 2.00Glyceryl stearate 4.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00 Hydrogenatedpolyisobutene 0.50 Dimethicone 5.00 Cyclomethicone 15.00 Myristylmyristate 4.00 Glycerol 3.00 Perfume, preservatives, q.s. dyes,antioxidants etc. Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 7.0

What is claimed is:
 1. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in theform of O/W emulsions, comprising (1) 0.1 up to 5% by weight, based onthe total weight of the preparations, of one or more C₁₄-C₂₂-fattyacids, (2) 0.2 up to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparations, of one or more mono- and/or diglycerides of fatty acids,(3) 0.1 up to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters, where thesum of (1), (2) and (3) is at most 12% by weight, (4) 0.5 to 10% byweight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or morenonpolar lipids, (5) 0.5-7.5% by weight, based on the total weight ofthe preparations, of one or more fatty alcohols (6) 0.5-7.5% by weight,based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more lipophilicbodying agents having a melting point or dropping point of ≧30° C. (7)0.5-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of oneor more silicone oils, (8) where the total lipid phase can comprise upto 40% by weight of polar lipids, based on the total weight of the lipidphase.
 2. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to claim 1,comprising (1) 0.5 up to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight ofthe preparations, of one or more C₁₄-C₂₂-fatty acids.
 3. Cosmetic anddermatological preparations according to claim 1, comprising (2) 2.5 upto 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of oneor more mono- and/or diglycerides of fatty acids.
 4. Cosmetic anddermatological preparations according to claim 1, comprising (3) 1.0 upto 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of oneor more ethoxylated fatty acid esters.
 5. Cosmetic and dermatologicalpreparations according to claim 1, comprising (2) up to 10% by weight,based on the total weight of the preparations, of glyceryl stearate. 6.Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to claim 1,comprising (3) up to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparations, of one or more ethoxylated fatty acid esters chosen fromthe group of PEG-20 to PEG-100 stearates.
 7. Cosmetic or dermatologicalpreparations according to claim 1, comprising (4) 0.5 to 10% by weight,based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more nonpolarlipids, chosen from the group of mineral oil and/or mineral waxes(including Vaseline).
 8. Cosmetic and dermatological preparationsaccording to claim 1, comprising (5) 2.0-3.0% by weight, based on thetotal weight of the preparations, of one or more fatty alcohols. 9.Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to claim 1,comprising (6) 1.5-2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparations, of one or more lipophilic bodying agents having a meltingpoint or dropping point of ≧30° C.
 10. Cosmetic and dermatologicalpreparations according to claim 1, comprising (7) 5-8% by weight, basedon the total weight of the preparations, of one or more silicone oils.11. The cosmetic and dermatological preparation according to claim 10wherein said one or more silicone oils are cyclomethicone(s).